If you find yourself in the mountains, you often are amazed by the rapid rivers that cross the valleys. By foot, it might seem impossible to follow the flow as at many points the rocks make it impossible to pass. But there is a much more attractive way. You can experience the river by rafting! You can be rafting the Noce and it’s a wild, adventurous ride!

It’s a warm day in July and a friend of mine came over to visit. As a guy from the Netherlands, a country as flat as a pancake, the mountains have a lot to offer. Due to the heat, we decided any activity with water would be appreciated. Hanging in a swimming pool? No, that not. We need some adrenaline rush. And so we end up in a rubber boat going down a wild river.

The timing is right

As it’s July, it means it’s mid-summer in Northern Italy. This usually means sunny weather with high temperatures. As the summer season is well underway, the river is relative “quite”. Most of the glacier water in the lower regions of the slopes has melted and with no to little rainfall in the last couple of days, we are in for a relaxing trip. Or so we thought. Rafting the Noce river is still an experience that has enough up its sleeve to kick your ass.

Heavy rainfall in the past days or just rainfall during the rafting experience will probably make the trip even more wild and exciting. At times, it might even get scary in such conditions. For us though, on our adventure day, the trip was just about perfect.

Be fearless

While this experience may seem rough and scary, I strongly recommend anyone to give it a try. With professional instructors, protective gear and clear guidelines you feel safe and comfortable. Wearing the wetsuit might feel a little cold and nasty at first, but knowing the water is very, very cold, you will be glad you are wearing it. Besides, it offers protection from the rocks that you might hit when falling out of the boat.

Falling out of the boat may also seem as a scary prospect, but actually, at a quite part of the river, you will be free to jump out of the boat and have a swim. And I strongly recommend doing it.

Interested in more outdoor activities in Trentino? Look no further!

When you find yourself near lake Garda and are looking for nice places to mountain bike, you know there are enough options. But you also know you won’t be alone. Drive to the Pasubio-group, close to Rovereto and you will find yourself a silent mountain bike paradise!

This ride is not only stunningly beautiful, it also offers you some nicer temperatures. With it’s lowest point at 1092 meter above sea-level you can rest assured that after 6 o’ clock in the evening it cools down to more mountain bike friendly temperatures.

The shelters and huts of the Pasubio-group

Locally, this ride is know under the name ‘Tra le malghe e le baite del Pasubio‘. As the autonomous province Trentino Alto Adige, it of course goes by the German name of ‘Zwichen malgen und hutten der Pasubio-gruppe‘ too.

The name is correct. While you bike from 1092 meter to 1903 meter above sea level trough the Pasubio-group, you pass several shelters and huts. During summer, some of them are open and are very much recommended for a pit-stop on the hotter days. Keep in mind though that usually they are open in weekends and up till around 7 in the evening.

Starting from Giazzera, where there are parking places, you are in for a little bit of a rough start. The first 500 meters it goes up to be followed by 500 meters down. This will get you awake and from there the only way is up. For 13 km you will find yourself battling an average gradient of 8%. The first 6 km this will be easy as it’s taking place on asphalt. After that, you enter rocky mountain roads and the further you go, the bigger the rocks!

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Taking a break from climbing

It’s also during this first 14 km you pass by the first 2 mountain huts. After 5 km you pass by Malga Valli and a mere 1.5 km later you find Malga Costoni. Depending on your level of fitness and goal of this ride, you might want to refresh at one of these two huts. If you do, just a few meters further after Malga Costoni you have majestic views over the valley!

After this point, all you will pass are ruins of the 1st world war and mountain shelters of the Pasubio-group. You will have to wait for kilometer 15 of this ride to get to the next hut; Rifugio Alpe Pozza V. Lancia. By that time, you have passed the tricky part of the decent towards Giazzera and find yourself at a 1825 meters above sea-level.

Halfway down to Giazzera

The first few 100 meters of the decent can be considered technical and depending on your level of experience even a bit scary. While the roads are wide, at some points it’s just steep and rocky. The further down you go, the better it gets. The rocks get smaller and more concrete shows up. After 19.5 km the road turns into asphalt again and while you have to be careful at blind corners, you can charge ahead fast from this point.

Arriving in Giazzera, you’ve done about 23 km and a rough 900 meters of climbing. For the trained mountain biker that doesn’t take a lot of time to stop, this ride will most likely be completed under 2 hours. If you are a recreational biker that is out to enjoy the scenery and want to take the time to enjoy and relax at the mountain huts, you can easily fill a half a day with this trip.

Surrounded by mountains, I’m in a hunt for panoramic views. With peaks well over 2000 meters above sea level this shouldn’t be too hard. But what if there’s more than just a majestic views? Today I visit the Stoanernen Madln in Süd Tyrol by the hands of Marion, my guide for today.

The Stoanernen Mandln are a big collection of piles of stone. Some of these piles reach as high as the average human length. Collected at the top of the Schöneck plateau it definitely adds an extra dimension to the already spectacular views over the valley and mountains around.

What are the Stoanernen Mandln?

It rises a question though. What are these man of stone doing here? There are at least a 100 of these piles of stones gathered around the cross.

The story goes that it’s a place was used by witches. In fact, there are legal documents dating back to 1540 that claim these practices. The witches would dance around the stone figures, worship the devil and change the weather, sending violent thunderstorms down the valley.

These stories combined with the mystic Stoanernen Mandln gives this place an enchanting and mysterious atmosphere. Combined with the spectacular views this is a hike you don’t want to miss!

Hike to the Stoanernen Mandln

As in many places, there are tons of ways to get up to the Stoanernen Mandln. The good news is that no matter what way, you’ll be presented with wonderful views along the hike. Common places to start are close to Sarentino or Merano.

The route I share here starts in Vöran and will take you on a 21km long journey. With an ascent of around 996 meters, this route will take you a little over 6 hours excluding stops. While the route itself is not hard, you do need a good condition. The experience and landscape are absolutely worth it though!

Other options to start a hike towards the Stoanernen Madln are from the nearby ‘Parkplatz Grüner Baum‘ or ‘Parkplatz Schermoos‘ in Mölten. Starting from there will reduce the duration of the hike to approximately 4 to 5 hours.

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Along the route

Along the route you will pass several restaurants. Note that the opening hours are seasonal. During high season many of these restaurants are open daily while in winter time they may only be open during weekends or even completely closed.

On the map we have marked some of the restaurants so you can keep them in mind while walking around. If you can’t get enough of the beauty in this region, it’s even possible to stay for the night at a couple of these places.

A hike to remember

While it’s not the toughest hike in terms of condition, the hike will still take you a full day to complete. Best of all, in terms of scenery and landscape, it’s one of the prettiest around. If you find yourself in the area in spring time, you’ll be welcomed by lots of flowers as well, giving yet another level of beauty to the hike.

If you are considering this hike or are interested in this region, we’d recommend you to visit the Avelengo, Verano and Merano tourist information website which is part of the region Süd Tyrol.

It’s an absolute iconic scene. Huskies running over the ice and snow with spectacular views over the Norwegian hills. Being in Norway, husky sledding is something I just had to try. On television, it looks amazing. In real life? It’s astonishingly beautiful!

Oslo and it’s surroundings are beautiful, but any Norwegian from that area will tell you that if you want to see the ‘real’ Norway, you have to at least drive for 2 hours up north. And so you can find a husky sledding experience close to Oslo, but I set out to go to a ski resort called Geilo on a 4 hour drive from Oslo.

While this may seem like a long drive, and it is, it’s worth it. Passing huge lakes and gorgeous mountains all covered in snow, there is not a moment this trip gets dull.

Sledding with Fagerlund Husky

While there are a couple of husky sledding providers in and around Geilo, I find Fagerlund Husky to be very responsive and flexible upon reservation. Upon arrival in Geilo, we have been picked up by a very friendly staff member of Fagerlund Husky. After a 15 minute drive, we arrive at a small camp with fireplace and tent.

After a small introduction and a friendly chat, we get into the tent to change some of our clothing. While the weather is really sunny today, the wind and snow will make it very cold and therefore good clothing is a necessity. Fagerlund Husky provides us with some decent winter clothing.

Keep calm and control your huskies!

Sledding the huskies on a frozen lake is absolutely amazing. But what if I tell you that you won’t just be sitting in the sleigh relaxing and enjoying the spectacular sights? What if I tell you that you will actually be the one that controls the huskies and sleigh?!

Yes, this may seem a little scary, but rest assured, it’s absolutely not hard to do. In our trip we took two laps around the lake. A little stop half way makes it possible to change position from relaxing in the sleigh to controlling the huskies.

When sleighing, all you have to do is keep your distance with the sled in front of you. You can do this using the ‘soft’ brake in which you stand on a mat. This will cause drag and slow you down a little. The huskies are strong and eager though so you once in a while will have to use the ‘hand brake’. This one will gently but certainly get you to a full stop. Steering the sled when turning? You don’t have to do much. It pretty much goes by itself.

A husky sledding experience to never forget

For me, this sure is in the top of the list of best experiences ever. A true ‘bucket-list’ check! It is as awesome as you’d imagine when you see these kind of adventures on TV. In fact, after some time it can be hard to image you actually did it!

And if reading this article didn’t convince you to go try it out, then check out the video below. If that doesn’t get you excited… well… I guess you’re not a fan of snow and/or dogs in the first place.

Go on your own husky sledding adventure

Want to try it yourself? If you have the opportunity, don’t doubt. It’s a lifetime experience I would recommend to anyone of all ages.

I went with the very helpful and friendly Norwegians at Fagerlund Husky. They offer several tours, varying in length and location. For personal advise, you can contact them by phone. Bookings and availability can be found here.

In for some good old winter fun in Oslo?! Need a little adrenaline rush? Head out and sleigh the Korketrekkeren! You won’t regret it!

Using a toboggan, a traditional and simple sled that is used for transportation in the past, you can now have a lot of winter fun on the Korketrekkeren. Literally translated as “the corkscrew”, this track runs between Frognerseteren and Midtstuen and is operated by the municipality.

You can use the track free of charge as it’s maintained by the municipality. Opening hours? Well, that really depends on the snow conditions. In the winter of 2017, it took up until the beginning of February before there was enough snow.

The speed of the track depends very much on the freshness of the snow. When the snow is fresh and powdery, it goes faster than when the snow is heavy and wet. The track gets at it’s craziest when it’s icy. In icy conditions it can actually be too fast and dangerous.

Want to try it out? Head out to Frognerseteren (reachable by metro) and lend a sleigh (kjelke) and helmet from the akeforeningen. It’s not possible to rent a sleigh when they consider the conditions not to be suitable. If you are not sure about the conditions, you can contact them by phone (see website for details)

History

The track used to be a road and was made into a luge track in the 1880’s. In fact, a bobsleigh track was built from the same starting point for the 1952 winter Olympics. As this was a temporary, artificial track with curves being constructed in snow and then frozen hard to ice, the bobsleigh track nowadays is by far gone.

There have been occasional proposals to build a permanent bobsleigh track but the selection of Lillehammer to be the host of the 1994 winter Olympics host stopped this debate.

That it’s not just slow fun becomes clear in the fact that in 2007, there were two serious accidents on the hill and it was subsequently closed by the police. The municipality then renovated the hill, removing poles and polstering dangerous edges.

Sleigh the Korketrekkeren on ice?!

I have been out there… a sunny day in the beginning of February. It was crowded and the track was icy. The result was absolutely crazy. The speed, the lack of control, it was hilarious and perhaps a little dangerous. One thing is for sure, you’ll know you live!

When I think about winter sports, I think about skiing and snowboarding. However, when I think skiing it’s actually alpine/slalom skiing. If a Norwegian talks about skiing, it’s cross country skiing.

During winter, when there is enough snow, there are many, many cross country skiing trails to be found around Oslo. As this sport is very popular, many of these trails are signed and even groomed! This makes it very convenient and so I set out to go on my first ever cross country skiing trip in Lommedalen. But first, why is it so popular? And is it hard to do?

The Norwegian history on cross country skiing

When you ask anyone in Norway why skiing is popular, the Norwegians will tell you they are born with skis on their feet. It makes sense. With snow all over the place for months during the winter, it’s an easy way for transportation. This also explains it’s popularity. In the past, it was purely a way to get from A to B the easiest and most convenient way.

Nowadays it transformed into to a fun and social sport. From recreational to fitness purpose, many Norwegians spend their spare time on skis. And it shows. During the winter Olympics Norway is a country that dominates in any sport that relates to cross country skiing. From marathons to biathlons, the Norwegians are always high in the ranks.

What you need for cross country skiing

You don’t need too much for cross country skiing. As long as you keep moving, even clothing stays rather limited as you quite quickly find yourself sweating when going a little uphill. Some good thermal clothing at it’s base is required. Other than that you want clothing that is not too wide and fluffy, but not too tight either as you require the freedom to move. Be sure to bring some additional dry clothing in a backpack for when you are done or take a brake, you cool down quickly when you are not moving.

The skis itself are rather different from your slalom/alpine skis. The are much thinner and allow your heel to come off the ski itself. The boots are also far less rigid compared to alpine boots. This is to allow you the freedom to move. Don’t forget to bring ski poles! Cross country skiing requires a lot of balance. You will definitely need them to get started. You will find some Norwegians going about without them, but these are most likely very experienced and actually training their balance to improve their technique.

My experience in Lommedalen

As usual, I felt completely out of my comfort zone in my cycling gear between all the experienced Norwegians. It must have looked foolish, and the Norwegians have a name for that. “A Dane on skis” is what they call somebody like me. Goofy but miraculously moving. And that’s exactly what I did!

It took some initial practice but then I was going places. It sure didn’t look elegant, but it was for sure a nice workout. Lommedalen is a very peaceful place which feels as if you are far away from the big city. Everything is white, the track wonderfully groomed and the sun peaking trough once in a while.

I was lucky to be surrounded by two real Norwegians that were able to assist me getting the grips of this fun sport. It’s highly recommended you bring yours if you set out on your first trip.

How to get started?

You don’t need to much experience to get started. In the beginning it might feel a little uncomfortable and it seems like you are not moving anywhere. The trick is, when setting of with one feet, to almost make a forward jump on one feet while not letting the skies leave to snow. In this way you get maximum grip to push yourself forward.

Start out slowly, technique is more important than speed. When going downhill, if there is a groomed track, just stay in it while bending a little trough your knees. You can slow down a little by placing one of the skies a little sideways in the snow.

While you can use your poles to push you forward, it’s not meant for that purpose. With a good technique, all you need them for is balancing. You will probably use them a lot to start with, but quite soon you’ll find out this is extremely heavy on the arms! If you use them, try slowing down and focus on technique!

Finding a groomed trail

Finding a groomed trail is very easy in the surroundings of Oslo. As it’s such a popular sport, there’s the Norwegian Ski Association that maintains a website with the current status of many of the tracks. Have a look on this map and plan your trip!

It’s the start of February and it seems like winter is about to get it’s grip again on southern Norway. The past day a fresh layer of snow has reached the forest of Nordmarka. Time to get out, uh, the bike! I want to find out if it’s possible to cycle trough Nordmarka this time of year. Not on a city bike or even a mountain bike, no, on a cyclocross bike. Can it be done?

After a good breakfast and some proper preparation in terms of bike, clothing and planning I drive towards Sørkedalen where I will start my ride. Upon arrival, parking is packed with people. With the little fresh snow of the last couple of days, it seems to have everybody excited for some cross country skiing. And I’m the only one with a bike… I feel out of place and frowns are coming my way. I must be mad…

Gear considerations

First of, you need proper gear. You head out in winter time with temperatures below freezing point. As long as you bike you are active and you will find yourself warm. But when that stops, a flat or a fall, it gets cold very quick! Make sure you wear enough clothing and bring a backpack with some additional clothing. If all goes well, consider the backpack as extra load for training purposes.

Second, you need tires with with spikes. I’ve mounted my Continental Nordic Spike tires. Not fully inflated they do very well on icy surfaces. Besides that, disc brakes are brilliant in these conditions too. Snow will slightly clog up your caliper brakes which will make your ride even tougher then it already is.

Don’t bring CO2 canisters. It won’t help you at all in these kind of conditions! As you use them, they freeze do to the rapid decompression. It’s freezing outside too so the result is a CO2 canister fixed to your wheel that won’t come off..

A mountainbike or fatbike would of course make this ride a lot more comfortable and easy, but what’s the fun in that?! (indeed, at the moment I just don’t have access to a mountain- or fatbike)

All important planning

Planning such a ride is crucial. Going out into Nordmarka, you are somewhat far from civilization. Sure as long as you bike, all is relative, but if that stops, you are far away from help. Make sure you bring a charged phone. Other items are extra clothing, some lights and additional food. It may sound extreme, but here, Norway in winter time, you don’t want to get stuck with too little.

This is why pre-ride planning is important. The conditions are treacherous during this time of year. In fact, you don’t even know the road conditions until you are actually there. Is the snow compact or fresh? Can you plough trough with a cyclocross bike? Halfway during my ride the snow got too deep and I couldn’t keep traction. I could have risked walking on for a bit, but I had no guarantee the conditions would improve. While it sucked, I decided to turn around and abandon my original plan.

Part of that decision are the weather predictions. There was more snowfall late in the afternoon. Of all things, I wanted to make sure I stay ahead of that. Yes, biking while it’s snowing is fun, but with a bit of bad luck, the snow hits hard. When it’s a lot the road can quickly fill up with centimeters of fresh snow, making it impossible for you to still pass trough! And before you know it, you are stuck!

Cyclocross snow

So can it be done? Did I prove cross country skiers wrong from frowning upon me and my bike? Absolutely! Cyclocross snow is a lot of fun and a very technical experience. It’s kind of like riding trough a thin layer of sand. A constant wet muddy trail. It requires agility and skills to stay upright, even with spikes. Of course the straight is easy enough, but even there, sudden grooves in the snow can cause a weird pull on your steer.

The route I rode, which I planned but couldn’t complete, took my ‘square by the nuts‘ from the start. It went up, up and up. This ain’t that easy when the snow slows you down too. But with magnificent views and, after leaving the cross country skiers behing, the tranquility makes it a wonderful experience in solitude.

Halfway the planned route the path became filled with a thick layer of fresh snow of about 30cm deep. That’s where I had to abandon the original plan. I’m sure if you follow my trail during summer you have no problem passing here, so as mentioned, adjust to the conditions whenever you are there.

I took the same road back and while I don’t like doing that, I had one guarantee; down, down and down! I reached relatively high speeds, considering I was riding snow. This brings me to my final tip, you need experience and skills to to go fast. Better be safe than sorry! Cornering in snow is like cornering in sand. It will push and pull your steer in directions you don’t want to go.

The difference between sand and snow? Usually the deep sand will feel soft when you fall in it. The snow? Not so much. Besides it’s quite cold and wet, snow is, well, ice! Ice patches just beneath the snow are unforgiving! Just take care and don’t let the adrenaline take control.

Cyclocross snow in more than a thousand words

On a short distance from Oslo, just above Maridalen lake, you have access to a great forest with countless little lakes and some stunning viewpoints. This time I take you into Turtermarka for a short hike of just over 6 km. Expect some beautiful sights!

While it’s January 2017, the weather is rather disappointing. According to the Norwegians there should be snow and freezing cold temperatures. None of that is the case. It’s above 0° and snow is nowhere to be seen. In fact, the trails are almost ice free! This, in one way, is of course the perfect weather for a wonderful hike.

I set out for a short hike in Turtermarka. Turtermarka is a small forest area about 5 to 10 minutes north from Oslo. It offers good parking facilities and it’s not far away from civilization. Setting out for this 6 km hike is therefore more of a leisure experience than a true and long hike. Don’t underestimate the ascent though. In the first 3 km you make an ascent of about 250 meters. This can be perceived as steep.

The trail up to Fagervann

After parking the car I make my way up a wide path. While this offers an easy walk, the ascent will warm you up quickly. I expected some wonderful views over Maridalen lake but the trees block the sight most of the time. Nevertheless there are some small glimpses of beauty trough the trees. On this day the overcast causes the view to look a little dull.

The higher up I get, the more ice patches appear. No, there is definitely no snow. It has been too warm, making sure all surface is either icy or very wet and swampy. At Fagervann, a little lake at 417 meter above sea-level, I reach the first highlight of the day. The lake is beautiful and covered in a thick layer of ice. The recent plus degree temperatures caused the lake to have a thin film of melted water over the ice.

At the lake I find a cabin in typical Norwegian style. The cabin is currently empty and from the looks of it, this is one of the many cabins you can find in the Norwegian forest and are available for hikers. While I’m not sure if this cabin is associated, being a member of the Norwegian Trekking Association gives you the possibility to rent a DNT key. Paying a deposit, this key will give you access to these kind of cabins in which you can stay for the night. Expect basic conditions and forget about electricity and such kind of luxury!

Sunset view from Båhushøgda

With little time to spare, I head on to highest point of my hike. Following a mushy and wet trail, I end up losing the path I was on. Luckily this is only shortly. The distance between Fagervann and Båhushøgda is also very short but, as expected, still upwards.

BÃ¥hushøgda is probably the highest point of Turtermarka and offers a majestic panoramic view over Oslo fjord. As usual during hikes in the Norwegian forest the treeline will break up your sight a little. I’m lucky though. The clouds have opened up to allow the sunset to shine trough and the scene is beautiful. BÃ¥hushøgda offers a good view over Norway’s biggest city and capital to deep into Oslo fjord, it’s a wonderful sight.

From here it’s downwards. And for me, a little fast too. With darkness approaching I walk into a dense forest, giving this short hike yet another twist. It’s Norwegian legend that if it’s misty, trolls might come out and they ain’t too friendly towards humans. I made it out just in time…

Details on the Turtermarka hike

This hike is, for the fit, a very easy hike to do. With 6 km it might even seem short, but the ascent and decent add a little to the effort. It took me 2,5 hours to complete the hike, but I sure took my time to enjoy Fagervann lake and the panoramic views at Båhushøgda.

If you’d like to follow my footsteps, you can download the GPX coorinates from here. The Wikiloc app and for a small fee get a very detailed, offline map which will help you immensely when setting out your own path.

Download GPX

It’s another Sunday in December I set out for my second hike near Olso, Norway. This time I’m equipped with the experience from last weeks hike and with that knowledge I go out with a lot more confidence. On the map I’ve spotted a location with lots of little lakes and hills just north of Oslo called Nordmarka.

It’s 10 in the morning and I’m still home, drinking a cup of coffee and gathering some gear. Knowing it gets dark early, this time I’d figure to bring some lights to not get in trouble after sunset. Other than that, I figured it would be wise to bring some more food. Bananas, yes, lot’s of them!

Next up, the weather. The looks from my window are somewhat depressing. It’s very cloudy, but lets stay optimistic, it doesn’t rain! Checking the weather using the Norwegian website yr.no I found that it’s not that cold today. A mere minus 1 to minus 3 is considered warm. It is cloudy though and while it’s most likely not in Olso itself, there might be a very little snowfall. Not the kind of weather that makes me anxious. The chance of some snow actually excites me!

Heading to Nordmarka

Scanning the map, north of Oslo there seems to be a place with loads of relatively high hills and loads of little lakes. Even better, there are even two big lakes called Østre Fyllingen and Bjørnsjøen. “Will they be frozen?” is the first question that comes to mind. Completely inexperienced in this environment, I am determined to find out.

The area I’m looking at is called Nordmarka, the biggest sub region of the Marka area. Marka is the name for the mainly forested region surrounding Oslo. It’s popular by the inhabitants of Oslo for hiking, biking and skiing possibilities. The Norwegian word ‘Marka‘ is the finite form of the word ‘mark‘ and means ‘woodland, forest’. And while I won’t need it today, it hosts many cabins and even for overnight accommodation.

I choose not to plan out a route on forehand, but to just find the location where I can park the car. On the map I find a place called Sørkedalen which is on a little 20 minute drive from Oslo. It has a big parking area so it must be the starting point of something. From there, I had the option to follow some trails and find some of the higher viewpoints or to check out some of the lakes.

Whether I’m going to make it to the big lakes or if I have the time to check out the panoramic view points I don’t know. I’m leaving a bit late and I can see it’s a serious walk to get to the two big lakes. But I got my lights this time, so I’ll see where this journey will bring me.

In for rough start

Driving out of the city, the first thing I notice is that it’s slippery. No, I’m not on foot yet, just in the car, but the advised 60 is for sure not a good idea. Reaching the parking are in Sørkedalen I find that it’s quite busy. Of course I’m not the only one heading out on a Sunday. Though I do notice that hiking is not the only activity people are out for today.

So there I go, together with my dog, sliding down the road and following a path next to a little creek to the start of an uphill walk. It turns out to become an upward battle. The path has become so icy, both me and my dog have serious trouble getting up. Finding our grip while holding my camera is not easy, but we manage to reach a higher part where the path turned a lot more solid.

By now, most people I have seen at the parking area are gone. I feel alone in the Norwegian ‘wilderness’ again and guess what, that’s what I’m looking for. And to my delight, it started snowing! It’s just a very little, but it gives the whole hike a totally different feeling.

Making my way trough the dense forest I go higher and higher up. I reach open plains that offer some nice sights over Sørkedalen. Once in a while checking my GPS position and direction I’m being thought another lessen. Don’t walk in an icy forest while looking at your phone or camera… The forest will punish you! With a swift swoosh I make a hard landing on my but on the icy trail and yes, my rather expensive DSLR camera was hanging around my neck. While I get up quickly I rated the incident a 9 out of 10. An almost perfect landing without any pain or damage and I proudly walk on.

I’m not the only one slipping and sliding around though. My dog Tøsen has a hard time figuring out what is going on too. But with some guidance she managed absolutely fine. As for myself, on the smaller icy paths, I started walking at the side of it. The deeper snow, branches and bushes offer a lot more stable soil. And if I had no way around it, I came to the conclusion that moving forward slowly while spreading your legs a bit was the best way to go. It ain’t a pretty sight though. If anything, it looks as if you crapped your pants…

In for the long haul

After passing some very picturesque houses and more and more snowy trails, I find myself on a ‘big’ road going deep into Nordmarka. By now it’s 2 o’clock and I’m 5 kilometers in. Knowing sunset will come in quick just after 3 o’clock and with the lakes on a 3 kilometer distance, I figured it would be cool to just follow this wide path. It allows me to pick up some speed and make it to the lakes quick enough, before having to walk another small 8 kilometers back.

Download GPX

Yes, it’s a huge walking distances but knowing my self, I know that it won’t be a problem. While picking up the pace, I find that I still have to be very careful as some parts of this wide path downwards is still very slippery. But it’s oh so rewarding! At some places I’m served very beautiful views over the valley and snowy hills. In fact, while it can be hard to see, you get glimpses of all the lakes. I straight away have the answer to my “frozen lake” question. The answer is a full mouthed yes! Frozen and white, no matter how big the lake is.

Standing between Østre Fyllingen and Bjørnsjøen I take a well deserved break. It’s absolutely beautiful and the silence is mesmerizing. And then it hit me. The power lines crossing straight trough the valley and across the lake…

It kind of ruins the solitude I experience as it reminds me of the huge agglomerations around this area. South from here you have Norways capital Oslo and going northwest from here will get you in Hønefoss. I get it, what else? But it still feels like a smudge on this beautiful location. Ah well, Norway is huge and if I really don’t want to see this, I should move my touristic ass away from the big city and go more north.

Into the darkness

After my short break, I decide to start making my way back, following the ‘big’ road back. Darkness falls over me soon and while I consider to take a side path into the obscured trails to a panoramic view point, I realize that when I get there, it will not give me the views i’m hoping for. It will be pitch black dark by the time I’m there.

And you know what? I’m getting tired, the dog is getting tired, I don’t think I should risk it on the smaller, icy trails. No, I’m not far from the big city, but when ‘shit hits the fan’ here, it’s still a very long, long way from help. Turning on my lights and the dogs collar light while it’s getting more dark, I’m getting a finale to my hike. The moon peeks trough the misty clouds and shines it’s lights over Nordmarka.

After a good 5 hours of walking in snow and ice I reach the car. Both me and my dog are toast but very satisfied of our hike. An impressive 17.2 kilometer has been bridged and we are both still safe and alive. We head back home, crash on the couch and dream on about this wonderful experience. I guess we need a week to recover before we set out to our next adventure. Maybe next time, I will find myself a cabin. Have a nights sleep traditional style though the sight of the power lines make me feel I should do this far deeper into the country. Nevertheless, for a day hike around Olso, Nordmarka is a wonderful place to be!

On a beautiful but frisky Saturday in the beginning of December I set out to hike the Maridalen Alps. Maridalen itself is a valley north of Oslo. In the valley you’ll find Maridalsvannet, a lake that serves as the primary source of drinking water. 90% of Oslo’s population get’s it’s water from this lake. But I set out to hike the hills, going up to 500 meter above sea level, to check out the spectacular forest and panoramic views.

It’s a very short drive from Oslo city center to get to the starting point, a parking area at the Sandermosveien in Maridalen. On my way to there I pass the Maridalsvannet lake. It’s a strange feeling. Within minutes you go from a busy city, to the quite country side of Oslo.

Once parked and prepared, I start the hike using a route I found online. It serves as a guideline. While it’s still close to the city, the Maridalen Alps is by far not your average city kind of forest. Coming from Amsterdam, this forest makes the places in the Netherlands nothing more than fancy parks. While Norwegians suggest this is not to be compared with the wilderness more north of the country, my assumption that this is a quite rugged area was more than correct.

Preparation is key

Setting out for a 10 km hike in Maridalen with little experience in this area or conditions is very important. While I had a sense of how long the hike would take, it’s still very hard to estimate. Other things to consider are questions like; ‘how is the weather?’, ‘what are the trail conditions?’ and not to forget, how much time do I have before it gets dark?

Knowing I wanted to take some pictures with my DSLR camera, I knew I would be standing still for minutes. Current temperatures of around -5 Celsius can cool you down very quickly. So first of all, I made sure I was wearing proper clothing and shoes. Norwegians love wool. And they are right. Wool underwear in the form of a long sleeved shirt and pants help immensely. On top of that I was wearing a fleece vest and waterproof winter sports clothing. Don’t go under dressed. Live by the rule; You can take off what’s too much, but you can’t put on what you didn’t bring.

Other things I brought was food, drinks and two pairs of gloves. While walking I quickly realized that in the case I got lost or stuck, I had no lights with me. And at this time of the year, twilight hits you around 15.30 and it doesn’t take long before it’s proper dark.

Of course you can take it quite far. What of a battery pack to re-charge your phone? I used mine as a GPS tracker so I could keep track of my location and the route I was planning to walk. I was happy did as at some points during the hike, the snow made it impossible to see the trail, making me wondering left to right with my eyes fixed on my phone screen. Going of track can be very though with the deep snow and in fact a bit dangerous and slippery.

So most important in my case was to start the hike with fully charged equipment, warm clothing and a very good mood.

Following the trail

Starting from the parking area, the beginning of the route eases you in very smoothly. A wide gravel road slowly leads you up into the hills. At this time of the year, many of the little streams of water are covered with ice patches. The snow that has fallen earlier, ensures that you have to stay a bit alert. It can be quite slippery, especially when the ground isn’t level.

Walking on, the wide road abruptly ended and turned into a little trail. A few meters further and you find the first little bridges crossing streams. Well, let me rephrase that. It seems like it used to be a little bridge. It’s now nothing more than a collection of wooden bars covered in ice, snow and rocks. With some agility I jumped and hopped my way over, trying not to get wet by the freezing cold water.

Surprisingly, some patches of green moss aren’t that stable as you think it might be. A layer of water and ice beneath it make it very squishy and would it have been a little less frozen, I’m quite sure I would have gotten myself wet feet.

Further on, it got steep. A look at my GPS route also straight told me I was off track… already… A very steep climb trough, working myself trough trees, branches and stone got me back on track. Not for long though.

Download GPX

Panoramic views over Maridalen

The higher I got, the more hints I got of the spectacular views I was about to see. The more snow too! It’s absolutely wonderful to walk around here. The silence, the clean air, it makes it all worth it. After some time going upwards, just a little break to enjoy the silence made realize I could hear my own heartbeat.

And there it was, the first panoramic view from the Mellomkollen. It gives a majestic view over Maridalen lake and looking even further a glimp of Oslo city and it’s fjord. As I’m an hour and a half into the hike, it’s time for some refreshment while enjoying this view.

Moving on the trail becomes tough and the steep incline and snow make it hard to stay on track. Having my phone in my one hand while the other is touching ground for support, I work my way up to the next view point. It’s here, Midtkollen, where it got really though.

Deep snow, lot’s of elevation changes and no sign of a trail left me wondering again. It’s here I actually got a tiny worried. Navigating this, knowing I only had 2 to 3 hours of daylight left, was hard. I was maybe just half way but already spend 2 hours. And I had no idea how long this rugged path would take me.

It didn’t change my mood though. Around every corner there was another beautiful sight to admire. From frozen lakes to fairy tail kind of trees and moss made me wonder if I would actually spot a real Norwegian troll. Of course I didn’t, they don’t come out in bright daylight. It needs to be very foggy for them to show up. Oh and no, I did not eat shrooms during my hike.

The way down

After finding the trail again using my phone, it became a lot easier. The snow slowly became less and the trail wider. Yet I had to remain vigilant. The ice patches made me slide around while holding my camera in the hand. It sure keeps you sharp and awake.

By now it became clear I was going to make it before twilight. In the last bit, of course I got of track again but following a trail down the side of the hill, I was quite sure it would lead me back to the main gravel road. From there it was a breeze to get back to the car.

All in all I’ve hiked and exact distance of 10 km taking 2 and an half hour of active walking time. This seems fast, but overall, I spend a little less than 4 hours in the Maridalen Alps. Driving home south, with the sunset as final show, this hike made me beg for more. Not today, as I’m toast, but I’ll sure be back soon.

What did I learn?

Well first of all, I might change a few things in my preparation. A bottle of cola and a bag of chips is maybe a bit little. Then the lights. I didn’t need them this time, but it’s better to be safe than sorry. The clothing? Well that was a bit overkill. It did help me a lot during 10 minute brakes to take pictures and such, so I probably won’t change much to it if I know I’ll be doing that.

Other than that, do not go out hiking when the snow conditions are worse! You can’t see the trail at all. I guess if there is a lot of snow, I will be out snowshoeing. Yes, that is actually an activity here I really like to try out.

Other than that, the GPS application I was using did not had such a detailed view of the trails. I highly recommend to either get a good hiking map or print the area from a a great source like Norgeskart.

How to get there?

I got there by car. From Oslo, there is pretty much one way that leads to Maridalen and Maridalsvannet. I recommend you use Google Maps (note that you can make areas offline available)

By train is a very good alternative. Line L3  (nsb.no) can take you to a station called Snippen from where it’s a small walk to the parking spot I started my hike. But be creative as there seem to be many trails that can get you to the same spots as I have visited.